When I first started planning my north India tour, my notebook was full of the usual suspects — the Taj Mahal at sunrise, the pink alleys of Jaipur, the ghats of Varanasi. I'd seen the Instagram posts. I knew what I was getting into. And I was perfectly happy with that itinerary, right up until a friend who'd done the same trip two years earlier grabbed my notebook, flipped to a fresh...
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